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Finding the Right Bit for You and Your Horse

By Carla Huston BES
For many people, selecting a bit is a matter of guesswork, trial and error or habit. Catalogues and magazines offer a huge array of bits, often with conflicting descriptions of their purpose. Everyone seems to have their own theory about what mouthpiece to use when, and their reasons behind the use of each piece are as variable as the weather. But until the rider understands the action of the bit and where the horse feels pressure it will not be a matter of finding the right bit, but knowing how to use it.
There are two basic classifications of bits, the snaffle and the curb, determined by the type of pressure they apply. The snaffle acts on direct pressure. This is the simplest and usually the gentlest bit, good for green horses and green riders, although it is also appropriate for the more advanced. Pressure is exerted on the corners of the mouth, lips, bars and tongue. The mouthpiece may be broken (jointed) or straight (mullen); the joint relieves pressure on the tongue and bars, while the mullen mouth can have a port for tongue release. Severity of the snaffle bit is determined by the circumference of the mouthpiece, the smaller it is, the harsher. Adding a twist, slow or otherwise, also increases the damaging effects.
The curb bit works by the principle of leverage. Any bit with shanks, regardless of the mouthpiece, is a curb. Usually the mouthpiece is a solid bar, straight or with a port, and applies pressure to the bars and lips. The port supplies tongue relief and also puts light pressure on the roof of the mouth. Because of the fulcrum action of the mouthpiece, most curbs exert some pressure on the poll right behind the ears when the reins are pulled. The curb chain, placed in the chin groove, puts pressure there and limits the rise of the port. The length of the shanks contributes to the severity of the bit, with harshness increasing as the length does.
The mechanical hackamore may also be considered a bit, although it does not have a mouthpiece. Used on horses that have injured mouths or that will not accept one, they have very long shanks that exert a great deal of pressure to the nose and chin groove with very little pull on the reins. Improperly used, the mechanical hackamore can be very damaging. The true hackamore is often used to start young horses in training and is gentler than the mechanical. The bosal fits closely around the horse's nose and low near the soft cartilage, applying pressure to the nose and chin. It is held in place with a headstall and fiador, a small double rope that attaches to the heel knot (at the chin) and serves as a throatlatch. The mecate wraps around the bosal in front of the heel knot, long enough to form a continuous rein and attached lead rope. This is a good training tool as it is mild, and also introduces the horse to both lateral and bearing rein pressure, without risking injury to the young animal's mouth.
It is essential that the bit fit properly. The mouthpiece must be wide enough for the horse's mouth. The snaffle should rest on the bars at the corners of the mouth. All rings should be large enough so that they do not pull through the mouth. Often the lips are pinched by rings that are poorly made with exposed joints. Again, the curb mouthpiece rests on the bars at the corners. The curb chain needs to be adjusted correctly, with room for two fingers between it and the horse's jaw. Too loose, it will pinch the corners of the mouth when the reins are pulled, too tight and the jaw is trapped between the chain and bit. The mouthpiece needs to be of a comfortable thickness for the horse's mouth so that he can comfortably carry it.
The effectiveness of the bit only goes as far as the rider; it is only as good as the hands on the reins. It is essential to realize that the bit is intended for communication, not control. Many riders move their horse too quickly out of the gentler snaffle bit because they want "brakes," rather than improve their understanding of the bit's use. When horses develop behavior or training problems, the common step is to increase the severity of the bit, hoping for improved response. Instead, improvement can more often be found by using a milder bit; the horse can relax without fear of being hurt and listen to the rider's aids. Backing the horse up in his training for a period may help him move forward.
Choosing the proper bit is determined by the horse's level of training, the type of riding being done, and the ability of the rider. Bits should not be considered cure-all problem solving devices; they are one means of communication with your horse, and their effectiveness is literally in the rider's hands. Understanding the horse's nature and behavior is necessary, and a bagful of bits will not take you there. But combine that knowledge with a carefully selected bit the horse is comfortable with and the rider uses properly, and the learning curve for both is expanded.